If you’ve followed my work for a while, you’ve probably noticed my obsession with cold connections. When it comes to joining metal, I’ll take a good rivet over soldering any day. The beauty of cold connections, particularly riveting, lies in the craftsmanship and precision involved – it’s a process that allows me to create beautiful, durable pieces without the need for heat.
That being said, I do have a deep respect and admiration for those who can solder delicate layers of metal together without melting them!
For the majority of my jewellery, rivets are the thing that hold everything together. I particularly love working with sterling silver and 9ct gold wire for my rivets, usually in gauges of 1mm or 0.7mm thick. These materials offer both strength and elegance, providing a solid connection while still allowing the beauty of the piece to shine through.
The process of making each rivet is a labour of love. It all starts with a short length of wire, which I hold securely in flat-nosed pliers against a sturdy vice. I then use a hammer to carefully shape the end of the wire into a flat, round rivet head.
To achieve the precision I need, I don’t rely on a tiny jeweler’s vice. Instead, I use a large, heavy-duty vice designed for woodwork. The added stability of this vice makes a world of difference when riveting, ensuring that the metal stays in place while I work. It’s also essential that the vice is at the perfect height, so I’ve raised mine up on slabs of wood to keep my posture in check while working. Comfort and ergonomics are key, especially during those long hours of intricate riveting!
When I begin the riveting process, I place a small piece of leather in the vice to protect the jewellery piece from any potential marks or scratches. This extra step ensures that the piece remains pristine as I carefully rivet the layers of handcut metal together.
To create a perfect fit for the rivets, I drill small holes in the layers of metal where the rivet will be inserted. I always use drill bits that are 0.1mm larger than the size of the rivet wire. For example, when using a 1mm rivet, I’ll drill a 1.1mm hole. This slight difference in size ensures that the rivet can slide through easily without creating any unnecessary pressure on the metal layers.
The next step is countersinking the rivet holes, which not only ensures that the rivets look neat and professional but also helps to extend the longevity of the rivet itself. Countersinking makes sure that the rivet head is well-secured, preventing it from becoming loose over time. Once the rivet is inserted through the hole, I cut the remaining length of the wire and gently hammer the other end flat.
Riveting, for me, isn’t just about technique – every rivet I hammer in place represents a commitment to craftsmanship, precision, and a passion for creating jewellery that will stand the test of time.
Thank you for these tips! I’m not sure what countersinking is but I will look it up so I can try this type of cold connection for myself.
Very intresting -and we have so in commen as a jeweler and the intrest in old art
Hello from France,
Thanks you for this article and for your answers on Instagram, i will try very soon my first earrings with layer and rivet (not solder this Time ahah)
Have a good day